Porto

Last time we were in Portugal we regretted not going to Porto. Everyone we know that has been there raves about it. So when we found that we could fly from Morocco to Porto and then onto Bordeaux for less than we would have paid for an overland journey from Paris to Curzon it was an easy decision to forfeit our Paris flights and enjoy a week in Porto. We wanted to go to San Sebastián, on the north west coast of Spain as well but you can’t do everything at once. (Wait for another ten blogs for that one).

Our flight arrived in the evening so it made no sense to go into town. We chose to stay at a business hotel at the airport. It provided a relaxing rest, to build our energy to challenge the city in the morning, when we caught the light rail into the main railway station. Linda had booked an apartment for the first three days. It was still too early to check in so we walked around a little but quickly noticed it is extremely hilly in Porto! Too hilly to be dragging two small suitcases around. I don’t think I saw a flat bit of road in the city! So we found a restaurant near our apartment that looked inviting and settled in for a long lunch to sample some Portuguese food and wine. Our choice was excellent. A small restaurant partially submerged on a steep part of the street that offered traditional cuisine, had many old pictures of the city on the walls and a hospitable proprietor that was very proud and engaging. It was the ideal introduction to Porto.

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Our new host was at the apartment to greet us and she was absolutely brilliant. Most of our hosts have been but this woman went over and above to ensure our stay was a pleasant one. The apartment was well equipped and in a central location. The icing (for lack of a better word) was the home made cake nicely presented on the kitchen table along with a carafe of home made port that was left as a welcoming gesture – we were loving this place already!

The buildings in Porto are amazing, the ceramic tile work in the main railway station was jaw dropping. The tile work is also extensively used on the exterior walls of buildings throughout the city, making for a magnificent sight. I remember being impressed with Lisbon years ago but Porto seemed to be far more impressive, maybe the brilliant sunshine we enjoyed in Porto as opposed to the stormy weather we experienced in the capital city made the difference.

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For those that have been following our blog, you will remember the drama we had in Paris trying to get some documents witnessed to be sent home. Well, they hadn’t arrived and it had been several weeks. Due to the importance and urgency, we had to set out and do it all again – much to my dismay. We didn’t even bother looking for an Australian Embassy this time, having been fleeced by the one in Paris. This time we sought the services of a notary – “surely they wouldn’t charge too much in Portugal”, we thought. First of all, they didn’t accept the format of our document and drafted their own version despite our disapproval! Then they presented us with a bill for ninety five Euro – we were beginning to think it was the standard rate, or they’d been liaising with the Australian Embassy! Then Fifty Euro to post the bloody thing did nothing to make me feel better about the whole experience either. Freshly baked Portugese tarts and espresso coffee however, did the job.

With business out of the way, we set off early the next morning to have a good look around. We were blessed with another sunny day and started off by walking down to the riverside which was a hype of activity with many people strolling along the waterfront and patronising the outdoor cafes. We had no time for coffee, we were crossing the iconic ‘Dom Luis I Bridge’, the double deck steel arch bridge that spans the river Duro, to visit the port cellars, most of which were located on the other side.

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We crossed on the lower deck and begun the long winding, hilly walk to ‘Taylors’ for an afternoon of Port sampling. There are so many famous brand port cellars, or Port Lodges as they are sometimes referred to. It was not possible to visit them all (at our age anyway) so we went with the advice of friends, that had visited recently, and did the antipasto platter in the lavishly landscaped terrace of Taylors while sampling several fine ports in the company of a good looking rooster (not me!!!) and a showoff peacock that thought he was pretty cool too!   

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Well rested, we were ready for the long walk back to the Dom Luis I bridge to walk across the top deck this time, being careful not to be hit by one of the many trams that cross the bridge at that level. 

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Just on the other side of the bridge we found a trendy bar that offered outdoor tables and served craft beer so we decided to reward ourselves for the long walk with a refreshing drink while soaking up the afternoon sun and listening to the talented buskers play nearby.

In our haste to get away early in the morning I had accidentally locked us out, so we had to call our host to meet us at the apartment. We hadn’t called her in the morning as we didn’t want to wait around, so we rang her on our way back to the apartment. She was going to be a while as she was caught up in the Sunday afternoon traffic so we were left with the choice of waiting on the street in the then cooling night or go into a wine bar across from the apartment and sample some local cheese and wine – the decision was unanimous!

Another sunny day helped make the decision to catch the the old tourist tram to the Foz district very easy. When we arrived at the tram stop there was no order as to how to line up so we just joined the group that was already waiting. It soon became obvious that we were on the wrong side but by the time the tram arrived, so many more people had joined the queue, we stood no chance of getting on if we were to change sides. We decided that we had a right to get on the tram and despite a large group of French tourists, (who had been sniggering and talking about us instead of letting us know about their system), got together in an attempt to make sure we didn’t get on- but they had completely underestimated our grit and determination,  so not only had we got on the tram (with our elbows out and a bit of pushing) we secured limited seating leaving some unimpressed passengers standing.

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The coastline at Fonz do Douro was quite stunning with an angry ocean smashing huge waves onto the rocks, it was a spectacular sight. Linda must have been having flashbacks of Iceland as she was cautious as to how close she got while snapping the ferocious waves. 

A walk along the waterfront, lunch and a more comfortable ride back into town on a commuter tram made for a pleasant day out.

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During our stay we enjoyed many local delicacies, dining in local eateries and fine restaurants. We even found a family run delicatessen that we kept returning to as they offered friendly service and proudly made suggestions of what we should try. The bakery on the other side of the road that produces Portuguese tarts in full view from the street was priceless. It even had a white apron clad baker walk onto the street ringing a large bell to indicate that a new batch had come out of the oven.

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A thoroughly enjoyable stay and we can not wait to return to Portugal later this year where we have a house sit just outside Lisbon for six weeks. But first, we had to fly to Bordeaux and head to our next house sit in Curzon, France. 

People ask us about how we get our house sits. This is the main website we use. https://www.trustedhousesitters.com/refer/RAF147238/
If you use the link above you will also get a discount on membership.
If you have any questions don’t hesitate to ask.
Enjoy.